Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Shanghai was a blast!
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Gone to Shanghai...
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Pineapple Powder
One day I figured it out. I would make pineapple powder! Theoretically, you can make any flavor of powder. Popular examples are tomato, fennel, mushroom, etc.. The ingredients are simple and it's easy to make.
The basic idea is to take some puree of whatever you are making powder of (in this case, a lot of pineapple pulp), squeeze as much water out of it as possible in a clean dishcloth, and dehydrate it in a dehydrator. Unfortunately, most normal people do not own a dehydrator machine in their homes, so I jerry-rigged a microwave to do the same thing by using the lowest possible setting for heat over an extended period of time. Since microwaves work on the principle of using water in a substance to produce heat, this works.
First, I took some pineapple puree and squeezed the water out as best I could.
Next, I spread the puree in a thin, even layer on top of a sheet of parchment. I trimmed the parchment into a circle shape so it would sit evenly in my microwave.
I set my microwave on 20% power and "cooked" the pineapple puree on the parchment for about 20 minutes. When I took it out, it was leathery and dry.
I think I might've overdried the pulp because there were some char marks and the flavor of the pineapple was extremely faint. I think overdrying the pineapple muted the flavors.
I put this all in a spice mill and grinded it up until no large pieces remained. It was a fine powder when I took it out.
Finally, I bottled the powder. It should be good for about three to five days. Afterwards, the flavor diminishes.
Now comes the million dollar question. What the hell do you use these powders for?
I have no idea. Anyone care to comment?
P.S. My friend likes to call this "pineapple nose candy."
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Shrimp with Avocado Salsa
Avocado is a terrific fruit rich with fiber, potassium, and of course, fat, but it makes a terrific avocado salsa that I've used more than once. It goes great with seafood (I've used it on red snapper before, with some minced chili peppers). Today, I decided to make Shrimp with Avocado Salsa.
First step was to make the court bouillon, an acidic poaching liquid which has flavors of anise and lemon. I combined water and aromatic vegetables in a large pot and heated it. The aromatics were carrots, leeks, and onions. The recipe called for fennel, but I don't really use it that often and I didn't feel like paying $5 for a single bulb, so I substituted a small amount of Pernod. I also added a bouquet garni, which is thyme, parsley, and bay leaves tied inside three leek greens.
Once that came to a boil, I reduced it to a simmer and added the white wine, white vinegar, and halved lemon.
Once it was simmering again, I added the shrimp. I got the shrimp from Pescatore in Grand Central Market once again. I opted for medium-sized shrimp with shell-on because I figured it would help keep in the flavor while it poached. Shopping at Pescatore is nice because they have one of those "customer loyalty cards" they punch out every time you purchase a pound of shrimp or fish. Once you get ten punches, you get a pound of ANY FISH for free. I've done the math for purchasing ten pounds of the cheapest carp and getting a free pound of tuna and it's not bad. Nice, eh?
I let it cool on the counter which took about half an hour, then I peeled and deveined the shrimp. In retrospect, I don't know if the whole court bouillon business did much. I tasted only a slight acidity and anise flavor in the shrimp, but I wasn't wowed. At least my compost bin is happy from the ordeal.
While this was all happening, I made the avocado salad. This was the easiest part. I used my brand-spanking new food processor and finely chopped some red onion and cucumber, then I carefully folded in the cubes of avocado, taking care not to break up the fruit. I also drizzled in some olive oil and seasoned it with salt and pepper to taste.
I had some tomato diamonds in the fridge from the previous day, so it was time for plating. I took a large fork and speared a shrimp on the end. On the tines, I added a heaping spoonful of avocado salsa and placed a few tomato diamonds on top. Here's the final canape plating:
Doesn't that look great? I would definitely make this again, but maybe without the court bouillon step. I think you can simply poach the shrimp in white wine and lemon, and it would come out fine. Also, the Pernod worked extremely well; I could taste a little anise flavor, and it was absolutely a cinch to do. Buying a whole piece of fennel, chopping it up, and letting the unused remainder go bad in your fridge is just a waste.
Happy summer everyone!
Sources:
Shrimp from Pescatore in Grand Central Market
Produce from Greenwich Produce in Grand Central Market
Monday, September 20, 2010
Curry with Thai Eggplant
A few weeks ago, I was walking past a vegetables stand and saw Thai eggplant, small green golf-ball--sized pellets. I couldn't resist and purchased a pound of the eggplants.
When I got home, I was perplexed. I had never cooked with Thai eggplant before and had no idea how to cook them. I decided to taste the vegetable. I cut one open -- it was incredibly seedy. The flavor was similar to normal eggplant. I noticed that the flesh seemed porous and absorbent. Then it hit me. Curry! A delicious curry sauce would be sopped up by the flesh of the eggplant. I had used normal eggplant in curries before and so I knew it would work.
I modified a standard recipe for curry that is the basic archetype from which all curries are built; you probably already know it. Turmeric root, cumin, and coriander are toasted until fragrant, then grounded up with garlic and peppers in a spice mill. You can add ginger too. Then diced onions are fried until translucent. Lastly, tomatoes and coconut milk are added. The result is Curry with Thai Eggplant.
I looked in the fridge hoping for some chicken, but no luck, only half a chicken breast. I prayed and hoped and crossed my fingers and opened the freezer. Eureka! I found a packet of snowy halibut. I had just stuck it in the freezer a mere few days ago, and I vacuum sealed it so it didn't suffer from freezer burn in any way.
First, I toasted some of the spices. Here we see cumin, coriander, and turmeric being toasted in a small saucepan.
I love my spice mill. You can make "dry" sauces so easily with one. Instead of chopping herbs, garlic, ginger, spices, parsley, cilantro, et cetera etcetera etcetera, just dump it all in the spice mill and coarsely grind. The more finely you grind it up, the more flavorful it will become. I'm not sure if they start to react after a certain point though, so I only ground until it was a coarse paste.
In a medium skillet, I heated some oil and added the chopped onion, cooking a few minutes until it softened.
I added the curry paste and cooked some more, trying to break up large pieces as best I could (it starts to stick together since it's a dry paste).
I added chopped tomatoes (You can peel the tomatoes if you want; I didn't) and cooked a minute or two. If desired, you can always remove the large pieces of tomato skin. I don't really mind it.
I added about a cup of coconut milk (same amount as the tomatoes), and mixed. I loved the melding of the colors.
I let this simmer (on medium or low) for about 10 minutes so that the tomatoes were breaking down. Meanwhile, I cubed chicken breast and the halibut...
I also quartered the Thai eggplants and mixed them into the curry. They benefit from extended cooking time as the curry has a chance to soak into the eggplants and give them a more flavorful characteristic.
I tasted the curry and deemed it worthy of the protein I was about to add. The chicken and halibut were added to the curry mixture and I cooked it thoroughly, until the fish and meat were cooked. If you are worried about overcooking the fish, I would add the chicken first, cook a few minutes (not completely), then add the fish.
For a finishing touch, I added chopped cilantro and incorporated.
The end product had a terrific kick. The Thai eggplants were the star of the dish; the seeds provided fun texture and the flesh soaked up the zingy curry flavor. The curry was both spicy and cooling. There was also well-balanced counterpoint between the spice of the peppers, the spice of the ginger, and the coolness of the coconut milk.
Sources:
Thai eggplant from Chinatown
Produce from Whole Foods
Halibut from Costco
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Rambutan in Cocktails
I have a habit of picking up odd produce and fruits that I don't recognize, taking in their aromas through my olfactory senses, enjoying their vivid colors, feeling their unique textures, and thinking about how they might enhance my home kitchen or bar.
So when I first discovered Rambutan, I knew I had to buy some and play with it at home. Rambutan is native to Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines, Sri Lanka, and southeast Asia in general. It's similar to the lychee in appearance and taste. The outer shell is red and "hairy" with lots of fibrous strands that extend from the covering. The fleshy fruit inside is sweet, sour, and lychee-like in texture -- soft and rubbery.
Rambutan is in season in late fall/early winter usually, but it also has a short season in late spring/early summer. According to the owner of the greenmarket where I purchased the rambutan, the long season lasts about six weeks.
I have used lychee in martinis in the past, but I decided to use tequila and try my hand at a margarita with rambutan flavor. After muddling the rambutan (peeled and de-seeded of course), I added 2 oz tequila, 1 oz Cointreau, and 1 oz fresh lime juice.
Two points here -- first, always, always use 100% blue agave tequila (make sure it's bottled in Mexico), and second, always squeeze your lime juice fresh.
Why, you may ask? The type of tequila you use is extremely important in your drinks. Many people say they dislike tequila simply because they have never had real Mexican tequila. Brands that are bottled outside of Mexico are called "mixtos," which contain less than 51% agave, using sugars and other alcohols to make up for the remainder. The result is a loss of pure agave flavor, a potential for a nasty hangover, and the lack of the deep and rich flavor of real 100% agave tequila. Personally, I always purchase 100% agave tequila, as the difference in cost is nominal and the quality that comes with the extra few bucks is tremendous.
As for the second point, an important tenet of bartending is that fresh fruit juices can make or break your bar. Please don't use the pre-squeezed brands available from the supermarket -- they are either too sweet, sour, sugary, watery, or simply not fresh-tasting. It's so easy to juice your own fruit for cocktails. As a rule of thumb, one lime will yield approximately one ounce of fresh lime juice if you use a citrus reamer.
Anyway, I shook all the ingredients in a Boston shaker filled with cold ice, and strained it into a margarita glass. Delicious.
An alternative is to use 1 oz grapefruit juice or 1/2 oz lime juice and 1/2 oz grapefruit juice in lieu of the lime juice.
Bottoms up!
Recipe: Rambutan-Grapefruit Margarita
Ingredients:
2 oz tequila
1 oz Cointreau
1/2 oz fresh lime juice
1/2 oz grapefruit juice
3 de-seeded and skinned Rambutan
6 mint leaves
1. Muddle the Rambutan in the bottom of a cocktail shaker. Slap the mint leaves to release their oils and aromas and place in the shaker.
2. Add the tequila, Cointreau, lime juice, and grapefruit juice.
3. Fill the shaker with cold ice and shake thoroughly.
4. Strain into a margarita glass and garnish with a lime wedge. Serve immediately.
Chinese Tea Eggs
The idea is to hard-boil regular chicken eggs -- supermarket-bought ones will do -- until they are about 75% done. You can use any type of eggs (I used a mixture of chicken eggs and quail eggs, as you can see above), but chicken eggs are larger and provide more food for your effort. Then, the eggs' shells are cracked carefully with the back of a spoon, and the eggs are marinated in a simmering mixture of soy sauce, black tea leaves, star anise, sugar, and other optional ingredients. The main items in the marinade are the four ingredients mentioned above, but you can add whatever you want to customize the flavor and aromatics as you wish. Some optional ingredients can include cinnamin stick, cracked black peppercorns, or orange zest. You can imagine the possibilities.
Chinese Tea Eggs - 茶叶蛋 (cháyèdàn)
6 eggs (chicken or quail eggs)
3 tea bags of black tea
1 cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
6 pieces star anise
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorn (optional)
2 to 3 strips dried mandarin peel (optional)
1. Submerge the eggs in a pot with cold water. Bring the water to a slow boil, then lower heat to simmer for about 3-5 minutes. Remove eggs from heat and allow to cool (or run them under cold water). Once they are cool enough to handle, take the back of a spoon and crack the shell all over. The more cracks, the more the marinade will penetrate the shell, and the more flavorful the resulting egg will be.
2. Return the eggs to a clean pot, and add the rest of the ingredients. Bring liquid to a boil and simmer for 1-3 hours, or even longer, for more intense flavor and color. Add water if level gets too low.
3. Remove from heat and peel egg immediately before serving. You can store them in the refrigerator for a cold snack.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Homemade Pesto
I decided to make pesto, using a very standard recipe. Pesto is a paste made from basil, olive oil, pine nuts, garlic, and Parmesan cheese. Some recipes call for Romano, which has a stronger flavor, but I think the decision is purely subjective.
First, I used two packed cups of basil leaves, which filled my entire blender. I don't recommend using a blender actually because there isn't enough liquid to get it to blend well. I used a spice mill, but I would recommend a food processor or something similar.
I added 1/3 cup pine nuts and pulsed my spice mill, then 3 cloves of garlic and pulsed some more. Then, I slowly drizzled about 1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil while blending.
Lastly, I added 1/2 cup of grated Parmesan-Reggiano cheese and pulsed my spice mill until well-blended. Add salt and pepper to taste.
What a gorgeous color. The aroma made me want to make pasta that instant, which I did. The pasta needed nothing more than to be tossed with the sauce. I was so delighted with the dish that I didn't bother adding a protein, like chicken. Pesto is a great use for your basil, if you have an abundance of it. The homemade version beats the store-bought version any day. Try it at sometime!
Recipe: Fresh Homemade Pesto
Ingredients
- 2 cups fresh basil leaves, packed
- 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan-Reggiano or Romano cheese
- 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1/3 cup pine nuts or walnuts
- 3 medium sized garlic cloves, minced
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 Combine the basil in with the pine nuts, pulse a few times in a food processor. (If you are using walnuts instead of pine nuts and they are not already chopped, pulse them a few times first, before adding the basil.) Add the garlic, pulse a few times more.
2 Slowly add the olive oil in a constant stream while the food processor is on. Stop to scrape down the sides of the food processor with a rubber spatula. Add the grated cheese and pulse again until blended. Add a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
Makes 1 cup.
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Chesapeake Bay Soft-shell Crab "Sandwich"
Soft-shelled crabs in the United States usually come from the Chesapeake Bay, which is where I sourced mine. I purchased a few from Pescatore in Grand Central Market. You can also buy soft-shelled crabs in Chinatown during the summer (other seasons, you can only get them frozen), but they are most likely mangrove crabs from Asia, a decent substitute.
As the crabs grow in size, they molt their old shell (which cannot grow in size) and are temporarily "soft-shelled" for several days. Fishermen who capture blue crabs during this phase usually set them aside for market as soft-shelled crabs.
I have prepared soft-shelled crabs in the past a number of ways, including, but not limited to, spicy soft-shelled crabs with linguine, deep-fried crispy soft-shelled crabs, sauteed with garlic and butter, etc.. Most of these preparations rely on the soft-shelled crab being deep-fried or sauteed until crispy. We will use the latter preparation for today's dish: Chesapeake Bay Soft-shell Crab "Sandwich."
The sandwich is composed of six components.
The sauce! Here's the mise en place for the sauce, egg yolks, minced cornichons and cornichon juice, chicken stock, canola oil, Dijon mustard. (Not pictured: minced shallot, minced Italian parsley, Brunoise, salt & pepper)
I blended the egg yolks, chicken stock, cornichon juice, and mustard in a blender. I then slowly drizzled oil in while it was running to emulsify the mixture. I then stirred in the remaining ingredients and refrigerated the sauce.
The capers! I heated 2 inches of canola oil in a small pot and fried capers for 12-15 minutes.
They were deliciously airy and crunchy after I drained them on paper towels. (Sorry about the white-out in this picture, the flash was on too high).
The soft-shelled crab! The worst part of making soft-shelled crabs, for a lot of people, is cleaning the crabs. Usually you can ask your fishmonger to do it for you, but I have a deep respect for all my food and prefer to do it myself. So, with a pair of kitchen scissors in hand, I cut off the face (and eyes) and removed all the gills under the soft cover and the apron from the back of the crab.
Once they were all clean, I dusted the SSCs with salt, pepper, and flour. I heated some clarified butter in a large skillet and sauteed the crabs in the hot butter for 2-3 minutes on each side. I had different cooking times for the claws, which I fried separately. You can see them draining on paper towels below.
The tomato confit! Tomato confit is delicious and you can eat it straight. I should create a diet which is just tomato confit -- you'd never gain weight -- since it's entirely water content.
Anyway, I cored the tomatoes and cut an X in the bottom of each tomato. I dropped each tomato in a pot of boiled salt water for a few seconds to loosen the skin, then moved them to an ice bath. The skins fell right off. I cut each tomato into quarters and cut away the ribs, leaving a smooth tomato petal.
I prepared a large baking sheet drizzled with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and placed the tomato petals on it. Each tomato petal had a small drizzle of more olive oil, salt, pepper, and its own sprig of thyme. I baked this for an hour and a half at 250.
The croutons! I took slices of bread with the crust removed and brushed them with olive oil. I sprinkled some kosher salt on top and baked them for 10-15 minutes. (Not pictured)
I then did the final assembly. A spoonful of sauce, followed by a crouton. Then, a crab body and a piece of tomato confit in half on top. Two crab claws, and some baby arugula on top. Lastly, a sprinkling of fried capers around the plate.
By the way, I am looking for someone who can help me with my food photography skills. I will reward you handsomely! If you live locally, I'll treat you to dinner! If you don't, I can always mail you some desserts or something in a refrigerated cold package. Let me know if you can help or have any tips!
Sources:
Soft-shelled crabs from Pescatore
Produce from Whole Foods
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Vietnamese-style Pork Chops
On this arid evening, I decided to visit a random restaurant in the neighborhood and discovered a delicious lemongrass grilled pork chop. It tasted sweet, tangy, and had a delicious saltiness that I later realized was fish sauce.
I've always been afraid to make pork chops because they can be dry and flavorless if prepared wrong. But I had beautifully cut pork chops in the fridge and some lemongrass in the freezer and felt this would be a preparation that would do them justice.
First, the mise en place:
(From left to right, minced lemon grass, lime/lime juice, minced garlic, honey, fish sauce - nam pla, black pepper)
I created the marinade by combining all the ingredients above and marinated the pork chops in them for about an hour.
I prepared a large cast-iron skillet on high heat and sauteed the pork chops, allowing the sugars in the honey to caramelize and give the meat a delicious burnt sweetness.
Dinner is served!
Recipe (adapted from the Minimalist)
VIETNAMESE-STYLE PORK CHOPS
Time: 30 minutes
2 tablespoons minced lemongrass
1 tablespoon minced garlic
3 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon nam pla
Juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste
1 1/2 pounds boneless pork chops or country-style ribs
1 lime, quartered
Chopped Thai basil or cilantro for garnish (optional).
1. Whisk lemongrass, garlic, honey and nam pla in large bowl. Add lime juice and pepper. Place pork in the bowl, turning to coat; let stand while you preheat grill or broiler.
2. Grill or broil pork, spooning marinade over as it cooks, until nicely done, about 10 minutes. Turn only once so that each side browns nicely. Serve with remaining lime and, if you like, the herb garnish.
Yield: 4 servings.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Sautéed Atlantic Halibut with Summer Succotash and Rue-Scented Onion Glaze
With the summer in full swing, I thought I would make a pleasant seasonal dish. I wanted to make something light and halibut seemed like a natural choice. So I settled on Sautéed Atlantic Halibut with Summer Succotash and Rue-Scented Onion Glaze.
The FLCB heralds fish because it carries garnishes extremely well. The garnish for this dish is the summer succotash, which is composed of baby corn, bell peppers, fava beans, Brunoise, and chives. Rue is an unusual grey-green herb that I have growing in my garden, and it imparts a unique flavor to onions. I think it is the perfect herb to cook onions with.
I love cipollini onions because they are small, round, and roast easily. They aren't awkward to work with in the roasting pan. Their sweetness really comes out when you caramelize them.
I first trimmed the onions, leaving the skin on and searing them in canola oil. I turned them halfway through. Searing the onions added flavor depth and character to the sauce.
I then took them out of the pan and drained the oil. Here you can see the terrific browned edges.
I melted some veal stock in the pan, and added chicken stock, thyme, rue, honey, and salt to the mixture. I readded the cipollini onions and brought it to a simmer.
A parchment lid covered the whole pan and I braised it in the oven for 45 minutes.
Next, the succotash:
I cooked the baby corn in sugar, milk, and salt for 10-12 minutes.
I drained and cut the baby corn into rondelles, rounds that are about 1/16 inch wide. I then combined the baby corn with the fava beans, red and yellow peppers, chives, and Brunoise and cooked it with beurre monté and water to tenderize and moisten them.
Next, the sauce. I took the liquid used to braise the onions and reduced it in a saucepan, all while adding butter, whisking and whisking. The sauce was ready once it coated the back of a spoon. I seasoned it to taste.
Lastly, the halibut. I bought this particular halibut from Whole Foods. I prepped the halibut into 2 inch by 2 inch by 3/4 inch pieces (3 ounces).
After dusting the fillets with flour, salt, and pepper, I sautéed the halibut in a large pan.
I turned them over after about 2 minutes.
Look at that terrific color. The halibut was cooked medium, as it dries out easily. I only seared it on the bottom side for an additional minute. I removed and drained them on paper towels.
Finally, plating!
First, a spoonful of sauce:
Next, one or two cipollini onions (depending on preference and size of the onions):
Next, a piece of halibut...
Finally, a few spoonfuls of succotash and a sprig of chervil:
Wow. This dish is one of my favorites to date. It has a summer lightness. The succotash had terrific flavor and provided interesting texture in contrast to the softness of the halibut. I had initial doubts about using a meat sauce for fish, but it worked well. That technique will have to be added to the kitchen repertoire in the future.
Sources:
Produce and halibut from Whole Foods